Focus on Lisbon
The European Hotspot for Retail Therapy
R.I.P. Boring Retail
Why the new era of retailing might need a new approach
The Power of the Influencer
Which brands use them & why? We discuss with Rosie Fortescue
summer 2018
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In recent months it appears not a day goes by without reading yet another sensationalist headline predicting the demise of the high street. Whilst we appreciate that as we write this foreword we are in the midst of ongoing administration, store closure and CVA announcements, it would be unjust not to recognise how the industry is in fact embracing and adapting to this ever changing landscape. We continue to be in awe of those retailers who consistently find ways of interacting with the consumer as highlighted in our 'Under the Influence' article we look at how retailers are turning to social media influencers to strengthen their brands and ultimately sell product. One such influencer is our cover star, blogger and jewellery designer Rosie Fortescue, originally of Made in Chelsea fame. We discuss how this business savvy woman has capitalised on the shows' success which has led to lucrative partnerships with the likes of Jo Malone, and even the promotion of her own-name brand Rosie Fortescue Jewellery. In the restaurant world, there are many positive things happening, especially for more unique operators. Trends in this market are having a big impact on the types of operators we have seen coming forward and taking space. We highlight the vegan trend, one of the most prominent of this year, in our review of new Covent Garden restaurant By Chloe. Whilst our new resident agent come chef (of Masterchef fame), Billy Wright, discusses the influx of street food vendors moving into Bricks and Mortar. In our rather controversial article 'RIP Boring Retail' we explore how new era retailers are putting the convenience of the consumer at the forefront of their strategies, blurring the lines between online and offline retailing. Here we raise the ever present need for landlords to work with retailers to curate successful retail locations. A prime example of impressive landlord/retailer collaboration can be seen on Pavilion Road, where Cadogan have done a fantastic job in creating a 'mini neighbourhood' in the heart of Chelsea. As ever we continue to roll with the changes and we are quite simply proud to be part of this ever-evolving industry, one thing's for sure...it's never dull! We hope you enjoy our third issue of Open Magazine. Savills Retail & Leisure team
social media: Twitter @savills / Instagram @Savills / LinkedIn
on the cover: Rosie Fortescue
digital magazine: real media group
Designed and produced by: Savills commercial marketing
website: savills.co.uk/retail
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Which retailers are using influencers and why?
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ABOVE: Influencers at Fendi show, Milan Fashion Week 2018
If you’re not using influencers you could be losing out big time. But what are they and why does your brand need them?
Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more information
Why use an influencer?
In 2016 J.W. Anderson’s Pierce bag was worn simultaneously by four bloggers during New York Fashion Week. It led to a 45 per cent spike in searches for the bag on Lyst. 22 per cent of customers are now acquired directly through influencer marketing. For every $1 spent on influencer marketing, businesses make $6.50 back on average (Tomoson 2015). The top 13 per cent of businesses can make $20 per $1 spent. 68 per cent of influencers prefer to work directly with a brand than via an agency (Grouphigh). A celebrity influencer with the reach of Kylie Jenner (107 million followers) can command between $100,000 and $300,000 per post. 77% of fashion influencers prefer Instagram as their source of consumer engagement.
Contact David Bell for more information.
Contact Laura Salisbury-Jones for more information
Contact Tiffany Luckett for more information
A celebrity influencer with the reach of Kylie Jenner can command between $100,000 and $300,000 per post.
Your number of followers is more important than anything else you can add to your CV. It has become your worth.
RIGHT: Blogger Camille Charriere arriving at the Molly Goddard runway show during London Fashion Week in February 2018
It’s not just the Kate Middleton effect anymore – these influencers can post a dress and make it sell out within hours. The data is tracked by platforms such as RewardStyle which can verify how many sales are derived from any given post and calculate how much influencers are owed for the mention. RewardStyle also owns Liketoknow.it which its claims drove $140 million of sales to its partners’ websites in 2016. The platform is by invitation only and, again, some of their best accounts aren’t people with 1 million followers, but those with 30,000 followers, who command the most trust and loyalty from their specific audience, some can earn $100,000 for one post if the sales figures are strong. Are influencers here to stay? While there are some who believe the ‘influencer bubble’ is set to burst, it’s far more likely that influencer marketing will become even more important. That said, influencers will certainly need to work hard to ensure their relevance and authenticity as brands use improving technology and digital platforms to measure their data and manage their relationships with influencers.
The most important mark of an influencer’s success is the number of followers they have, but while influencers who have millions of followers are fundamentally now celebrities, they don’t necessarily have the biggest impact on sales figures for brands. So-called ‘micro influencers’, with between 10,000 to 999,000 followers, are seen to be more ‘genuine’ and their followers ‘trust’ them far more. This means that there is an even stronger relationship between sales densities and that influencer mentioning a certain product in their feed. The key ingredient brands look for is ‘follower engagement’ which is essentially the ratio of the number of likes to comments to number of followers.
They sit in the front row at major fashion shows; they land prominent ad campaigns; they star on the front cover of magazines. Indeed, social media following is now the most powerful currency in fashion: according to Launchmetrics $2 billion was spent on influencer marketing in 2017, with fashion and beauty accounting for 40 per cent of that figure. Some might say brands that aren’t using influencers, are losing out big time. However, influencers can have a negative effect on brands too: such is their pulling power that they can literally knock millions off of a company’s value with a single tweet. In 2017 Kylie Jenner famously wiped £1 billion off the stock value of Snapchat when she tweeted: ‘So does anyone else not open Snapchat anymore? Or is it just me?...Ugh this is so sad…’
In some ways, influencers are the new ‘It’ girls – remember Lady Victoria Hervey and Tara Palmer-Tomkinson in the Nineties? – but with a whole lot more business acumen and self-marketing savvy. Plus they make a lot more money than those It girls ever did. The job description is certainly attractive: be paid to go to parties wearing designer clothes you’ve been given for free; be sent designer items just so you post them on Instagram; get paid anything from £2,000 to £30,000 per Instagram post/mention (dependent on the amount of followers you have); collaborate with brands on their campaigns or bring out your own collection of something (jewellery, perfume, shoes, fashion line, make up, fitness apps); be sent on holidays to promote brands, hotels or even locations. In a short space of time, fashion influencers have become a fundamental part of the fashion establishment.
Once upon a time, it was every little girl’s dream to be a pop star. What could be better than being a Spice Girl? Singing, award ceremonies, music videos, dancing and David Beckham as a husband. Flash forward to 2018 and times have changed. Why be a pop star, when you could be an influencer? What’s an influencer, you say? My best bet is you have heard of one or two of them already since some have become household names. The queen of them all, of course, is Kim Kardashian, influencer par excellence. It’s a job that didn’t even exist 20 years ago. It effectively started as a direct result of Instagram giving everyone, not just celebrities, the chance to reach out to millions and influence what they bought.
Rosie Fortescue
Rosie was one of the original cast members of Made in Chelsea when it launched in 2011. She took a step back from her commitments to the show in 2016/17 and started focusing more on her blog, At Fashion Forte, and her jewellery line, Rosie Fortescue Jewellery.
In your own collection, what is the most successful piece of jewellery and why do you think this is?
My heartbeat rings are very popular, as are my rainbow earrings. In June I’m launching a wholerainbow collection of my most popular pieces. So the heartbeat rings, hand cuffs and necklaces will all be made with rainbow stones and I could not be more excited about this collection.
Do you use any other influencers for your own brand?
Yes, I use friends who are influencers who genuinely love the brand and want to wear it. I haven't done any paid partnerships for RFJ (Rosie Fortescue Jewellery) yet and don't see myself doing it in the near future. It sounds mad given that I partner with brands myself, but I want to grow my own brand organically a little longer before I put proper money into marketing.
Does your Instagram account represent the real you?
Yes, totally. My personal Instagram is very much about my life. Eating (and drinking), outfits, jewellery, holidays, work projects and friends and family life. I obviously do keep moments private and don't post after 10pm if I’ve been drinking! But I want people to see the real me, not just a curated version of myself, which is so often the case. My jewellery page is much more curated though as I want the page to look dreamy and colourful.
How do you use your skills as an influencer to promote your own brand?
I live and breathe the brand so it's natural for me to promote it. I like to show what it’s like behind the scenes: the post office trips and the not so glamorous side of running a business. I want people to know how much I do and not make it look easy because having your own brand and doing everything yourself is definitely not easy. I am super excited to be moving into an office next week and it's a great next step for me and the brand.
LA-based Aimee launched her blog, which is based around interior design, in 2008. She has collaborated with companies such as Lacoste and Bloomingdale’s, and runs her own interior design business, Song of Style Interior Design.
Aimee Song
Fashion and travel influencer, Lucy began her career as a fashion assistant at renowned online lifestyle magazine Sheerluxe.com before moving on to become an assistant fashion & beauty editor at Stylus. Since then she has swapped the 9-5 grind in favor of full-time blogging and collaborations with flourishing brands such as Missoma and Aeyde. In a recent interview with Harpers Bazaar Lucy discusses the importance of partnering with brands that feel right, she says 'There’s nothing better than working with a brand you love to create something you want to wear, then seeing other people buying and wearing it too'.
Lucy Williams
Labelled by BoF as ‘one of the fashion industry’s leading influencers’, French-born Camille was pursuing a career in law and finance in London when she quit to take the plunge into fashion. In 2010 she launched a blog called Camille Over the Rainbow; she later landed jobs at Net-a-Porter and Matches Fashion and today is a regular on the fashion circuit. Camille co-hosts a fashion podcast and has collaborated with brands such as Mango, Reformation, H&M, Chloé, Tommy Hilfiger and Harrods.
Camille Charriere
The 30-year-old Italian launched her fashion blog ‘The Blonde Salad’, in the pre-Instagram days of 2009. In 2011 Teen Vogue wrote an article on her which propelled her to stardom and when Harvard Business Review ran its first ever case study on influencers in 2015, it cited Chiara’s earnings in 2014 as $8 million. Chiara has her own accessories and footwear collection which earned her $20 million in 2016 alone and has collaborated with brands such as Gucci and Guess. It was even reported that she was paid $40,000 to attend the opening of Stuart Weitzman’s Milan flagship.
Chiara Ferragni
What brands have you partnered with and why?
I have collaborated with so many over the years, from jewellery and clothing to beauty. I only work with brands that I like and would wear or use myself. At the moment I am an Ambassador for Jo Malone London and also for TRESemmé.
What impact does your association with products or brands have on sales and can you quantify your influence?
When you promote an item you can use an app like RewardStyle which tells you how many pieces your promotion has sold. Equally, if I were to put a link on Instagram Stories to a dress from Topshop, say, I would be able to see how many dresses sold as a result (and get commission).
Why do you think influencers are so successful at helping brands to promote and sell products?
There are just so many ways to put images of products out there that weren’t available to us before. Now I have a brand of my own I know there’s nothing better than seeing how other people – customers as well as influencers – style my products. The images they put out there not only promote my brand, but also give me content to use on my own channels. There’s a constant recurring cycle of promotion.
525,000 followers
@rosiefortecue
Why did you make the transition from Made in Chelsea star to fashion influencer?
I went into Made in Chelsea because I wanted to make money to start my own brand – that was my goal from the get-go. I never wanted fame or to be talking about guys and dating on television. I had my fashion blog and I wanted to launch my jewellery brand, Rosie Fortescue Jewellery, and that was my main focus.
4.8M followers
@songofstyle
337,000 followers
@lucywilliams02
653,000 followers
@camillecharriere
12.7M followers
@chiaraferragni
FASHION
MEET 5 TOP fashion influencers, INCLUDING Former Made in Chelsea star Rosie Fortescue. Rosie collaborates with brands and promotes her own jewellery collection. She puts her success down to authenticity and hard work.
posters
POWER
with
the
Please contact Billy Wright for more information.
It has certainly never been easier and cheaper to start and progress a food business.
With the mass-market operators retracting there is more space coming available for independent and trendy brands.
ABOVE: Diners at a street food market
Street food vendor
BELOW: KERB food market, Kings Cross
How have landlords helped the trend? Aside from enabling these markets to add value to underused land of varying types, some of the bigger London landlords such as Shaftesbury have always been a supporter of more independent food and drink offerings, concentrating on the look and feel of the estate over just the financials to create distinctive, lively and interesting destinations. It’s therefore not surprising they have given opportunities to a number of street food operators and are continuing to do so: this spring, street food operator Claw opened its first bricks-and-mortar outpost on Kingly Street. So what does the future hold? With more and more food halls and pop-up container malls opening in London, and with the sustained growth of the more traditional food markets, we are set to see a continued expansion of new ideas and offerings. What is clear is that with the mass-market operators retracting there is more space coming available for independent and trendy brands. However, the desire of these start-up restaurants is ultimately to grow their business and as a result the bricks-and-mortar market is set to be as competitive as ever.
But what does all this mean for landlords in the food and drink industry? Will operators continue with these more short-term options, de-risking in uncertain times, avoiding the 15-year lease and £500,00+ fit-out? Some will, yes. But others are utilising the trend, very successfully, to build a brand and a solid operation, proving their concept and making themselves very investible. Early adopters in the street food world that have gone on to create successful independent chains, for example, include the likes of Pizza Pilgrims, Honest Burgers and Patty&Bun. And it’s not just fast casual offerings that have done well. Mac and Wild, the champion of Scottish produce, now has established restaurants in Fitzrovia and The City. Kricket, originally offering modern Indian small plates from a shipping container in Pop Brixton, went into Soho and is now heading back to Brixton permanently for restaurant number two. Breddos Tacos is another success story: starting out in a makeshift taco shack in a car park in Hackney in 2011, it now boasts one of the most prime spots in Soho on Kingly Street.
It’s not just street markets that are experiencing a new lease of culinary life: food halls have also been reinvented by companies such as Pergola and Market Halls, which offer independent and smaller operators the opportunity to serve a captive audience in a cool setting for far less cost and risk than a traditional restaurant. Market Halls, which has just opened its first outlet in Fulham to high acclaim, looks to recreate the feeling of the established high-end European food halls such as Time Out Market in Lisbon and Italy’s Eataly (which itself will take 42,000 sq ft at 135 Bishopsgate in 2020). Market Halls has an aggressive expansion plan, with additional outlets already in the pipeline in London and a five-year plan to open 15 more across the country, offering six-month to two-year terms at a base cost of 25 per cent of turnover. Another take on semi-permanent options for food and drink operators is offered by Boxpark. Boxpark creates ‘pop-up malls’ out of shipping containers, giving five-year leases to multiple independent and global brands. The first mall opened in Shoreditch in 2011, followed by Croydon in 2016 with a total focus on food and drink with Wembley set to open later this year. It has certainly never been easier and cheaper to start and progress a food business.
The streetfood scene has boomed across the capital and beyond over the past few years. The KERB juggernaut has shown the way with five primarily lunchtime markets, as well as an incubator scheme (inKERBator) for budding talent. Hot on its heels with five food markets of its own is Street Feast, although it has a slightly different approach, offering customers a night out rather than a grab-and-go lunch. It is, it says, ‘transforming derelict and disused spaces into unique eating and drinking environments, all bringing great street food, brilliant booze and vibes to people around London.’ Local councils across the capital are supportive of the street food scene, enabling many locations to open up, from popular venues such as Borough – London’s oldest street food market – to weekend venues such as Maltby Street, Brockley, Venn Street and Broadway Markets, to name but a few.
A TASTE OF WHAT'S TO COME
ON THE
word
street
Does the soaraway success of street food mean the traditional bricks-and-mortar restaurant has its chips? Not at all, says Billy Wright, Restaurant Specialist.
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Sophie Hulme, the British accessories designer, known for her affordable but luxurious leather handbags, has signed for her first store on London's Chiltern Street. The brand had previously opened a pop up in Burlington Arcade before taking this permenant flagship unit.
British Luxury Handbag designer to open on Chiltern Street
Mark Wahlberg's fast food burger chain has annouced that it will be opening its first site outside of America on James Street in Covent Garden. The chain is rumoured to have paid a record rent for the former Maxwell's site. The American chain follows in Five Guys footsteps making a big impact in Covent Garden for their first flagship site.
Mark Wahlberg and his three brothers expand their burger chain to Covent Garden
Cadogan signed Harrod's first charity shop on Brompton Road, which took the form of a pop up. The pop up shop was created by Harrods and all items for sale in the store were donated by Harrods staff, Harrods customers or Harrods brand partners. Items for sale ranged from Alaia to Victoria Beckham and Christian Louboutin.
Harrods open their first charity shop pop up
Following on from the news that Azzedine Alaia had signed for his first London store before sadly passing away, the brand has now opened its New Bond Street store to much fanfare. This impressive 6,000 sq ft store, set over three floors is somewhat of an art gallery in its own right, seamlessly showcasing the brands clothing and accessories hanging from and sitting atop of furniture designed by some of today’s most iconic designers from Shiro Kuramata to Marc Newson.
Maison Alaia opens the doors to its debut London flagship store
Freak Scene, Scott Hallsworth's newest restaurant venture, has opened a permenant location after a trial pop up in Soho. The new restaurant follows his previous success with Pan-Asian cuisine, with some divine dishes including including tuna sashimi pizza, miso grilled black cod tacos and honey-hoisin grilled pork belly.
Freak Scene takes over Barrafina on Frith Street
Luxury French lingerie brand Empriente has opened their first store outside of Paris on South Molton Street. The brand will be selling their lingerie and swimwear collection from the store. They will also be offering a personalisation service for their products in store so their consumer can make their own bespoke luxury lingerie.
Luxury Parisian lingerie brand opens first UK store
5Om, a new concept store and effectively the first of its kind, has opened in Eccleston Yard in Belgravia, Grosvenor's most recent redevelopment project. The store aims to promote emerging design talent as a result of increasingly high rents and rates in the capital which have made it impossible for emerging designers to afford their own store. For a monthly fee, each designer will have 5Om of rail space, hence the name of the store. The store opened in June and can house up to 3O designers at any one time.
New concept store for emerging fashion designers to open in Belgravia
Bluebird has relocated their famed Kings Road flagship to Floral Street in Covent Garden. The stunning space located in a Grade II building called Carriage Hall comprises 15,000 sq ft space of open air space, with three floors and an expansive restaurant on the second floor. The retailer joins Petersham Nurseries and Kent & Curwen, both who have recently opened on the street.
Floral Street becomes home to one of London's most beautifully designed concept stores
On March 20 Adidas opened it’s first UK based Stadium store concept as part of the grand unveiling of Westfield London’s £600 m extension. The latest in a line of successful global openings, of which first launched in New York in 2016, the site was designed by Julius Steinhert of DarntonB3 Architecture. The store features tiered levels, a player’s tunnel entrance and fitting rooms in a locker room style as well as the ‘Test & Create’ area dedicated to a try-before-you buy format.
Adidas kicks off Westfield extension opening WITH FIRST UK stadium store concept
On April 23 Petersham Nurseries opened no less than two restaurants, a bar, deli, shop, florist and cellar on King Street all of which surround an enchanting floral court which will offer al fresco dining during the summer months. La Goccia will offer up casual Italian dining by way of ‘cicchetti’ whilst The Petersham will embrace the same ‘Slow Food’ philosophy that originated in its Richmond outpost, serving ‘the finest seasonal produce, quality ingredients and Italian flavours’.
Petersham Nurseries blossoms with newest venture in Covent Garde
Lighting, Furniture and Accessories brand Tom Dixon moved their headquarters from Portobello Dock to Kings Cross in March. This 17,500 sq ft site known as The Coal Office is currently home to the designers flagship shop and office with an exciting new restaurant concept to follow in the Summer. Tom Dixon has joined forces with chef Assaf Granit (of The Barbary), curating a 3 floor restaurant with a rooftop terrace overlooking Granary Square.
Tom Dixon fires up the kitchen at Coal Drops Yard
Barbour will upsize their current Duke Street store from 1,500 sq ft to over 4,000 sq ft to form a brand new flagship store. The store will open in Q3 2018 and will include their full range of mens, womens, children and dog products.
Barbour to expand into flagship store on Grosvenor's Duke Street
Robatayaki is a form of Japanese barbequing over hot coals, literally translating to English from Japanese as 'cooking over fire'. In Inko Nito, the hot coals take centre stage in the middle of the restaurant, where meats such as tiger prawns, seabass, scallops, bone marrow and chicken are grilled to perfection. We highly recommend.
Japanese Robatayaki barbeques on Broadwick Street
Our exclusive edit of the capital's latest retail and leisure openings.
Please contact Tiffany Luckett or Oliver Green for more information.
Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more information.
Please contact Peter Thomas for more information.
Duck and Dry will be opening their third London site in the heart of Old Spitalfields Market. The brand, who's first site was on theKing's Road, have a strong following and an even stronger brandidentity. This City location is the ideal position for them to meetthe demands of the local clientele who have been desperate forthem to open East.
Duck & Dry find their first East London home at Spitalfields
Deciem, who opened their first 350 sq ft storein Spitalfields just under 2 years ago, have takena store that is just under 2,000 sq ft in total, inaddition to their current store. This acquisitionproves how successful their trade at Spitalfieldshas been and how the relatively small brand hasgone from strength to stregth over the last five years.
Bailey Nelson have taken their second London site in Spitalfields taking a unit on Brushfield Street. The Australian brand retail same price glasses and sunglasses at £125 per pair, with free subscription included.
Bailey Nelson lands in East London
Deciem take an extra 2,000 sq ft at Spitalfields
SAVILLS DEALS
quote
NYC is one of the greatest cities in the world. It’s the nucleus of the New York metropolitan area, with everything radiating from it. LA, on the other hand, is very spread out. The highways are extremely congested and, as a result, the suburban markets here are very strong. DTLA isn’t as dynamic as NYC and it doesn’t have the social impact. A lot of that has to do with the transportation system and the lack of residential population. Most workers drive into DTLA so there isn’t a constant pedestrian traffic flow and, as DTLA isn’t very walkable, people tend to stay within a one- or two-block radius of their office buildings. In NYC, New Yorkers and commuters rely heavily on the NYC subway system, public transportation and their own two feet to get around.
No, not as far as I can see. Some areas that were soft or had several vacancies are now leasing up fast and rents have not really dropped. A few months ago, the future of Robertson Boulevard in West Hollywood looked as bleak as NYC’s Bleecker Street. However, Chanel renewed its lease; The Ivy is still full for lunch every day; Sam Fox recently opened The Henry, his newest restaurant brand; Blue Bottle Coffee opened and James Perse leased the former Ralph Lauren store for his home furnishings and accessories line. The Malls are getting a major facelift, too. Westfield Century City recently reopened after a billion dollar renovation, adding the first West Coast Eataly, and Taubman is spending nearly $500 million on renovations at The Beverly Center. Other hot areas include Melrose Place in West Hollywood, Silver Lake, Culver City and The Pacific Palisades.
So retail isn’t experiencing the same decline in LA as elsewhere in the US?
It is! It’s a great time to be in LA, work in LA and live in LA.
Sounds like LA is your kind of town?
It’s a very long list! My favourite local places are Dan Tana’s, Craig’s, Matsuhisa, Porta Via, Wally’s, Wolfgang’s, Petite Taqueria, Il Piccolino, Aburiya Raku and The Nosh of Beverly Hills for breakfast. When I want to go over the top, I head for chi SPACCA (best steak ever), Totoraku (good luck getting in), Giorgio Baldi (for the white truffle pasta) or Capo (for veal chop and amazing wine list). Since my office is in Downtown, I get to sneak out to Sushi Gen for the lunch special. When I need the ‘hangover special’, I either go to Langer’s Deli for the #1 (hot pastrami, coleslaw, Russian dressing on seeded rye), Howlin’ Ray’s for a fried chicken sando, mild with extra comeback sauce (it’s the perfect chicken sandwich with the right amount of heat) and Philippe’s for the roast beef French Dipped Sandwich (with hot mustard, of course).
Where do you like to eat?
One of the most notable new restaurants is Eataly LA in Westfield Century City. Other openings include NYC’s Avra, in the former Hakkasan location in Beverly Hills; Adam Perry Lang’s APL in Hollywood; Charles Phan, from The Slanted Door in San Francisco, in the Arts District; Jean-George Vongerichten at the new Waldorf Astoria in Beverly Hills and Sam Fox from Arizona at The Henry. Joe & The Juice has been on a buying spree.
And restaurants?
Every week I hear of a new retailer or restaurant either opening, looking around or have inked a deal. Glossier recently opened alongside the only Nordstrom Local in the US; ba&sh opened on North Beverly in Beverly Hills; APM Monaco is opening at The Beverly Center in West Hollywood and Designer Eyes is opening at Century City. Retail design and manufacturing is slowly coming back, too. Jonathan Simkhai moved from NYC to West Hollywood; J Brand and Adidas are at the Row in DTLA Arts. Retailers from Asia, UK, Europe, NY are all eyeing LA and opening up stores or pop-ups.
What’s new on the retail scene?
It already is! There are around 40,000 combined residential units currently under construction and in the planning stages in DTLA. Economic growth is projected at 8.8 per cent over the next five years. The Metro is undergoing a major expansion connecting the Westside to Downtown which will dramatically increase passenger numbers and pedestrian flow on the streets. Historically, DTLA has been home predominantly to financial, insurance and real estate companies. But in the past 12 months, the InterContinental, Hotel Indigo, The Freehand hotel and The NoMad hotel have all opened. In addition to entertainment giant Warner Music Group relocating its global headquarters from Burbank to the DTLA Arts District, Spotify will be swapping 8,500 sq ft in West Hollywood for 100,000 sq ft in the Arts District. Retail and restaurants are expanding all over DTLA, from Broadway and the Fashion District to the Arts District.
Will this change, do you think?
Well, besides the amazing weather, there is so much retail opportunity in LA and everyone wants to be here. Fortunately for me, Savills-Studley is such an entrepreneurial company, giving me the opportunity to expand my retail platform, which allows me to leverage my relationships across the country. Of course, I also have to have strong local retail relationships and local knowledge. We have offices in Downtown LA (DTLA) and in Westwood, so the infrastructure and support is in place.
LEFT: Howlin' Ray's chicken BELOW: Dan Tana’s, West Hollywood
ABOVE: Waldorf Astoria. Beverly Hills
How do the two cities differ?
Why did you make the bi-coastal move from NYC to LA?
BELOW: Malibu Sport Fishing Pier
BELOW: Philippe’s, Los Angeles
HAVING FULLY EMBRACED THE BI-COASTAL LIFESTYLE, RETAIL SPECIALIST JEFF LAGOWITZ FILLS US IN ON LA LA LAND’S LATEST HOTsPOTS
ANGELES
los
Pavilion Road is London’s newest village-style high street, with a butcher, a baker and an artisan cheesemonger, not to mention a florist, a wine merchant and a purveyor of designer swimwear. Can’t quite place it? Pavilion Road is the long, partly cobbled thoroughfare that runs parallel to Sloane Street, starting just opposite the back entrance of Peter Jones and going all the way up to Basil Street in Knightsbridge. The top end is a mix of offices and residential. The middle section boasts attractive mews houses. But it’s the formerly lacklustre Sloane Square end, between Cadogan Gardens and Symons Street, that has been transformed into the new heart of the neighbourhood. Pavilion Road was built in the 18th century as part of Henry Holland’s ambitious ‘Hans Town’ development on land owned by the Earl Cadogan. Sloane Street and Sloane Square, Hans Place, Street and Crescent and Cadogan Place were all laid out by Holland, with houses designed for those of ‘moderately affluent’ means (Jane Austen’s brother and his wife lived in Hans Town; first in Sloane Street then Hans Place). Pavilion Road was used mainly for stables and coach houses for the more prestigious properties nearby. Today this part of Chelsea boasts some of the most glamorous retail outlets and restaurants in the capital; it has a thriving arts scene, lively pubs and iconic hotels, not to mention beautiful homes. But what it has always lacked is its own high street. Somewhere you can buy a loaf of bread, catch up with a neighbour and have a coffee. Cadogan resolved to put that right and following a consultation with the local community, set about creating a destination for independent, artisan traders behind the new George House development on Sloane Street. Says Hugh Seaborn, Chief Executive of Cadogan: ‘We had clear direction of residents’ desires for shops that serve local people, so we deliberately sought leaders in their field to meet these requirements. As long-term stewards of Chelsea, our focus is on creating vibrancy through a careful balance of top international flagships, best-in-their-field independent artisans and a great mix of places to eat and drink.”’
Cadogan has taken a slice of Pavilion Road and transformed it into a village high street with a flourishing foodie scene.
LEFT & ABOVE: Hans Bar & Grill
Wulf & Lamb, Chelsea in Bloom
ABOVE: Bread Ahead, Bakery BELOW: Chelsea Summer Fete, Pavilion Road
We all benefit from each other’s businesses as each one is unique.
We had clear direction of residents’ desires for shops that serve local people, so we deliberately sought leaders in their field to meet these requirements. Hugh Seaborn, Chief Executive of Cadogan
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CHELSEA
MADE
Indeed, Cadogan spent over a year actively seeking the right artisans – small, independently run shops that would deliver a richer experience and enhance the area’s village feel. Joining established fashion and beauty boutiques today are Pavilion Wine, Bread Ahead, Provenance Village Butcher, London Cheesemongers, coffee roasters The Roasting Party and grocers Natoora as well as vegan restaurant Wulf & Lamb, Granger & Co Chelsea and Kxu Fitness & Wellness. The initiative has proved a huge success not least with the artisans themselves. Says Matthew Jones at Bread Ahead: ‘It’s probably about 80 per cent locals… we do get quite a bit of business at school home time too, there are four schools in the neighbourhood and we get through lots of brownies and doughnuts at that time of day. Everybody knows each other so it’s a really tight-knit community.’ Jonny Ramsay at Kxu agrees with Matthew, adding, ‘We all benefit from each other’s businesses as each one is unique. The courtyard is like a secret oasis and the café culture along Pavilion Road is growing which gives a real buzz about the place.’ And word is spreading fast. Once found, Pavilion Road offers just the sort of authentic, relaxing environment shoppers want to return to time and again. ‘The footfall and profile are increasing all the time,’ says Jared Wybrow at London Cheesemongers. ‘We have new people coming in and discovering us every day.’ The next phase of development, which will add a further three small shops, has now almost completed. ‘We look forward to finding the right new additions to serve the community and add further character to this fantastic part of London,’ says Hugh Seaborn. Just as Henry Holland’s 18th-century development was the blueprint for new towns all over the country, so Pavilion Road has become a shining example of how to please the local community while giving artisans and small businesses a real chance to flourish.
Please contact Tiffany Luckett or Peter Thomas for more information.
Natoora, the Fruit & Vegetable grocer who has been operating for 10 years delivering fruit and vegetables to over 400 restaurants in London, New York and Paris, has taken their third London unit in Chelsea on the Fulham Road
The sustainable Fruit and Veg store secures another Chelsea location
Online luxury pet boutique Love My Human is to open its first physical store in Chelsea. The store will offer a dog creche service, allowing dog owners to drop off their pets for pampering whilst they enjoy their day shopping in Chelsea.
Chelsea residents get a place to pamper their pooch
Italian street fashion brand MSGM have signed their first London flagship store. MSGM is a brand best known for its kaleidoscope prints and cutting-edge styling. It has created a name for itself, especially in Asia, since its creation in 2009 by designer Massimo Giorgetti.
Italian fashion brand take their first UK store in Brompton Cross
FORGET LONDON, PARIS AND MILAN: PORTUGAL’S CAPITAL IS FAST BECOMING THE EUROPEAN HOTSPOT FOR RETAIL THERAPY.
From Baixa to Príncipe Real and from Avenida da Liberdade to Chiado, Lisbon offers international luxury brands and the trendiest Portuguese designers in some of the coolest shops in the country.
Savills Aguirre Newman have acted on several locations in the Chiado Area such as The Eye Glass Factory. For more information please contact: Cristina Cristovao (Lisbon) cristina.cristovao@savills-aguirrenewman.pt Laura Salisbury Jones (London) lsjones@savills.com
Cais do Sodré District
Chiado District
Avenida da Liberdade
MAIN: Aerial View of Augusta Street, Baixa Chiado LEFT & ABOVE: Cartier, Avenida da Liberdade
Evening
Afternoon
Morning
lisbon
EUROPEAN FOCUS
LEFT: Lisbon Rooftops
ABOVE: Lisbon Tramway BELOW: Augusta Street & Prada, Avenida da Liberdade
At the end of the day make your way down Rua Augusta, one of the busiest pedestrianised streets in Lisbon, and continue to Praça do Comércio, one of the largest squares in Europe and known locally as Terreiro do Paço. This was where the Ribeira Royal Palace stood for 250 years until it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Today the renovated buildings and spaces, with terraces, leisure areas and restaurants, harmonise perfectly with the Tagus River which flows just beyond. To experience an impressive sunset, take a stroll along Ribeira das Naus, a landscape promenande on the waterfront. A few minutes’ walk will bring you to Lisbon’s hip Cais do Sodré district, filled with new cafés, bars and shops. There are traditional restaurants here, too, as well as TimeOut Market, a concept which has taken the best of Lisbon – restaurants, bars, meat, fish, fruit, flowers, and so on – and put it all together in one 1,000 sq m space. It’s a great way to experience contemporary Lisbon; prices are low and the atmosphere is always fun and relaxed. If you still have any energy left, head up Príncipe Real to one of the coolest and most eclectic parts of the city. The historic Alfama neighbourhood is a prime example of the way in which brands looking to expand in Lisbon are changing the city’s retail landscape. Here you'll find many Portuguese designers and the city’s best concept stores, including Amazingstore, Vintage Department, 21pr Concept Store and Maison Nuno Gama, not to mention Embaixada, a shopping gallery housed in a 19th-century palace. Alfama is another great neighbourhood for eating out and where Jamie Oliver has opened his first restaurant in Portugal. Check out Palácio Chiado, a gallery of restaurants and bars in another of the district’s historic palaces: it’s the perfect spot in which to end your day of retail therapy, Lisbon style.
Despite a strong demand for space from international brands, Lisbon boasts a number of shops that date back more than 100 years. At the edge of Baixa is the Chiado district, home to some of the oldest establishments in the city, including glove shop Luvaria Ulisses on Rua do Carmo, and Café Brasileira and iconic department store Paris em Lisboa, both on Rua Garrett. This part of the Lisbon, which was completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1755, was badly damaged by fire in 1988. Today, however, it boasts some of the country's main theatres and entertainment venues, hosting many of the city’s cultural events. The Teatro Nacional de São Carlos is the home of the national opera while in summer you can enjoy the many outdoor concerts and ballets held in Largo da São Carlos. Chiado is also home to some of the best restaurants in the city, including Belcanto, offering José Avillez’s modern take on Portuguese haute cuisine. This was the first restaurant in Lisbon to be awarded two Michelin stars and is considered to be among the top 100 restaurants in the world. But we warned: if you wish to eat here, you’ll have to book at least a month in advance.
Start your day at the top of Avenida da Liberdade, said to be the 10th most luxurious street in the world, where you will find top brands such as recently opened Bulgari and Versace as well as Prada, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Armani, Gucci, Cartier, Longchamp, Loewe, Zadig & Voltaire, COS, Ermenegildo Zegna, Hugo Boss and Hackett, among many others. This prestigious avenue is also home to theatres, palaces and exquisite hotels as well as restaurants where award-winning chefs reinvent Mediterranean cuisine. Stop for a late breakfast at one of the many rooftop restaurants which line the street and enjoy the view of this beautiful city. Half way down Avenida da Liberdade is the neoclassical Tivoli Theatre. It was built as a cinema in 1924 but these days hosts all kinds of events, from concerts and stand-up festivals to theatre. Here the recently opened JNcQUOI is a wonderfully calming space spread over three floors, with a restaurant, deli bar and stylish Fashion Clinic store. At the end of the avenue, in the heart of the Baixa district, lie Restauradores Square and magnificent Rossio Square. This part of Lisbon has been home to many illustrious poets and politicians over the years and still retains its old-world charm. Baixa’s Pombalina neighbourhood is where you’ll find more accessible brands such as Zara, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Adidas, H&M, NIKE and FNAC, located in the main shopping streets of Rua Garrett, Rua do Carmo and Rua Augusta.
a day in
Please contact James Fairley for more information
Hershesons’ new flagship salon in Fitzrovia ushers in an exciting new era for hair and beauty in the UK. Why a new era? Because, says Luke Hersheson, Creative Director at Hershesons, the old-style salon has simply had its day. ‘Salons have become predictable, boring, much of a muchness and not in tune with how we live our lives now,’ he claims. Added to which, the Hershesons’ approach has always been to tear up the rule book and start again. This, after all, is the company that reinvented the salon experience in the late Nineties and launched the first blowdry bar in the Noughties. Why settle for same old, same old when you can be innovative and trendsetting?Why indeed. The new 5,000 sq ft space on Berners Street is the ultimate one-stop beauty shop. As well as the top-of-its-game hair shop + blowdry bar, Hershesons has collaborated with major third-party brand partners to offer best-in-class beauty services. These include manicures and pedicures by Dryby; new facial treatments by Sunday Riley; light therapy by The Light Salon, non-surgical treatments by Dr Barbara Sturm; brows by Suman Brows and waxing by Ministry of Waxing.The new salon also offers a café-come-work-space-come-social-space called Café by Sans Pere, where customers can drop in and hangout while they tuck into healthy, wholesome food. The design of the new Hershesons salon is equally groundbreaking. Says Luke: ‘We didn’t want matchy-matchy mirrors, chairs and lighting that typifies the traditional salon design model. So we worked with designers GP Studios and architect Racheline Michaels to create our own unique environment. A space that is eclectic; a fusion of styles and design while also being warm, welcoming and full of personality.’Hershesons’ clients can come in for express services and work at the same time. Or they can stay all day and have every treatment on offer. As Luke says, ‘It’s a beauty space, a work space and a social space wrapped into one. Hershesons, 29 Berners Street, London W1T 3LR www.hershesons.com +44207 434 1747
Hershesons gives the traditional hair salon a dazzling new makeover
Please contact Anthony Selwyn for more information.
Kobox, London's first boxing only workout, have found a new and permanent home on the Kings Road. Kobox have already called the Kings Road home for 3 years, but with the redevelopment of their current site on its way, they seized the opportunity to gain a long term 6,500 sq ft flag post in the Chelsea area.
Kobox find a permanent home on the Kings Road
After a lengthy planning process we are pleased to say that A3 consent and licensing was granted for Sticks n Sushi, who will open their fifth London site in the heart of Chelsea. The restaurant comprises 6,000 sq ft and will become a flagship site for the restauranteur who mixes Swedish and Japanese food influences
Luxury shoewear brand move into Bond Street
Sticks n Sushi take possession of their Kings Road flagship
Roger Vivier, who opened his first boutique in Paris in 1937, is opening his next flagship location on Bond Street, to join his Sloane Street location. Roger has been famed for creating heels for the Queen, Catherine Deneuve and Brigitte Bardot. Each shoe and accessory epitomizes effortless elegance.
A key element of this will be the delivery of appealing and exciting physical store experiences. Brands are already looking to achieve engagement with their customers, via their stores, through a variety of often interconnected ways. Some of the key trends in this space include immersive retailing, with a practical edge, such as Woolrich’s extreme weather room in their Milan flagship that allows customers to test their outerwear in extreme weather like conditions. Other trends in terms of engagement include complimentary commerce, where brands have brought in additional services, such as café’s, yoga studios, as part of the footprint of the store as with Sweaty Betty’s One Carnaby and Asics concept store in Berlin. Brand collaborations and on-site personalization through the use of 3D printing are other ways retailers are using real estate to engage with customers. Some of these trends are having a direct impact on property requirements and how brands use their physical space, for example, Louis Vuitton’s Supreme collaboration was launched through a series of pop-up sites globally.
ABOVE: Glossier Showroom, New York, United States
RETAIL
BORING
R.I.P
Please contact Marie Hickey for more information.
LEFT: ChicBus Alipay Flagship Store: The world’s first technologyretail Alipay flagship store (Designed By LYCS Architecture)
BELOW: Digital store experience
ABOVE: 3D Printing Technology LEFT: Man wearing jumper from Louis Vuitton & Supreme Collaboration
greater collaboration between landlord and tenant is required to ensure the success and sustainability of a retail location
Frictionless payment is the holy grail of convenience, and vital to the future success of the physical store.
However, engagement with customerscannot be successful if the experienceis not also convenient and that meansbetter integration of technology.Frictionless payment is the holy grailof convenience, and vital to the futuresuccess of the physical store. AmazonGois at the forefront of this having removedcashiers from its new grocery storeconcept and is reportedly looking toopen more sites in the US. A number ofretailers are trialing the use of facialrecognition to speed up the paymentprocess while others are integrating dedicated click & collect areas into theirstores, as seen in Zara’s new WestfieldStratford store. Digitisation of the store experience,in the sense that a customer’s onlineprofile is available to sales assistants instore, will also add to the engagement and convenience of the store. SomethingFarfetch is looking to achieve with theirStore of the Future operating systemwith the view that it will provide a morepersonalized in-store experience.
This migration of some spend online also masks the fact that a significant share of online sales touches a store in some way – according to GlobalRetail 29 per cent of online sales touch a store either through click & collect or customers browsing instore before purchasing online. Anecdotal evidence is provided by retailers who often report a surge in online sales in localities in which they have recently opened a new store. With retailers looking to minimise delivery costs through a greater use of click & collect, the value of a physical presence will become even more important. The future will no longer be a case of simply online vs offline, rather the future will be about engagement and convenience across all channels.
This era of ‘new retailing’ will, however, require a new approach by landlords. The old days of leasing a store and having very little contact with the retailer over the course of the lease are over. The new ways people are shopping, with the growth in online, is shining a more forensic light on store portfolios. In response retailers are becoming more sensitive to total occupational costs, which has been exacerbated in London with the rates revaluation. This sensitivity is also leading retailers to pursue shorter leases, as well as turnover leases in some cases. A greater use of pop-ups, not just by emerging brands but also by large established brands, is also becoming more common albeit largely as part of marketing initiatives rather than just a way to test a location. Retailers are also becoming far more data hungry, placing more pressure on landlords and their advisors to provide metrics to demonstrate how a retail location performs and who shops there. What this means is that greater collaboration between landlord and tenant is required to ensure the success and sustainability of a retail location. It also means engagement with local planning authorities, particularly on placemaking initiatives but also to demonstrate how retailing has changed so that these changes are reflected in planning policy. So no, physical retail definitely isn’t dead, but boring retail could well be
For the truth is, while the growth in online retail is generating a structural shift, the bulk of retail sales will continue to take place in stores, with some parts of the retail market far more insulated from the growth in online penetration than others. GlobalRetail forecasts that while 19 per cent of retail sales will take place online by 2022 – up from its current share of 16 per cent – segments such as beauty, where the need to test and ‘experience’ a product before purchase is more prevalent, will have an online penetration rate of just 12 per cent by 2022.
It’s the million-dollar question of our day: is physical retail dead? The simple answer is that no, it’s not dead – what is dying is boring retail.
Please contact Laura Salisbury Jones for more information.
Gentle Monster, an eyewear designer brand which describes itself as 'constantly developing itself under a philosophy of high-end experimentation', has signed their first London flagship in the previous Dune store on Argyll Street. The brand have some of the quirkiest stores and most exceptional stores we have witnessed, which are more akin to art galleries than stores.
Gentle Monster acquires much anticipated first London store
A purveyor of the world's most exclusive long lasting roses, the brand was established in London in 1999 and sells roses harvested in the best Ecuadorian conditions that can literally last forever.
Parisian Eyewear brand takes Regent Street
Forever Rose flower in Belgravia
Parisian eyewear brand Jimmy Fairly, who have a 'buy one give one' charity policy, whereby when someone buys a pair of glasses, the company give a pair away to someone in need. Each pair of glasses retail at 99 Euros, but the UK price is yet to be confirmed. The brand acquired the lease off Vilbrequin.
Original by Chloe restaurant New York
Please contact Benjamin Ashe for more information.
ABOVE: Mac’n’Cheese with shitake ‘bacon’ TOP: Quinoa Taco Salad
ABOVE: Hanging basket seats
VEGAN'S
Meat's a sin
We decided to order a Quinoa Taco Salad, Mac’n’Cheese, the Classic Burger and some juices. At the counter we were given a buzzer. Five minutes later it buzzed and our food was ready for collection from the counter on sturdy metal trays. The portions were a decent size; the Mac’n’Cheese was surprisingly rich and creamy with tasty shitake ‘bacon’ which was actually satisfyingly chewy salted mushrooms heaped on top of the pasta. The Quinoa Taco Salad was substantial with a spicy seitan and black bean mixture that did a pretty good job at pretending to be minced beef. The Classic Burger was very tasty but less surprising and definitely didn’t hit the spot in the same way a traditional bacon double cheeseburger does. We washed the whole lot down with a lemonade and a matcha tea – one was a bit sweet, the other slightly bitter. At just under £30 for two it wasn’t an expensive evening meal but I suspect if I were faced with the same bill for a quick lunch I would think differently. My verdict? By Chloe might be free of animal products but it‘s a world away from the virtuous wholefood restaurants of yesteryear. It’s the sort of place vegans can feel they are being indulgent without breaking the rules and the rest of us can gorge on ‘junk food’ and leave feeling smug, knowing we’ve done just a little bit to save the planet.
I breezed through ‘Veganuary’, unmoved by the increasingly popular notion that giving up meat and dairy could be the healthy way forward. I began to have my doubts, though, when I stepped into the lift one day only to hear a guy who looked like an ex-prop for Wales talking about tofu on toast. Could it be I was missing out? So when it came to deciding where to review for this edition of Open, a vegan restaurant recently arrived from New York seemed the obvious choice. Located on Russell Street, just off Covent Garden’s Drury Lane, By Chloe is ideally placed for a pre-theatre bite to eat or half an hour’s respite from shopping. It’s counter service and getting to the counter to order is as easy as quinoa pie. The hard bit is getting a table. We got there at 6:30pm prompt to avoid queuing but on arrival found there was already a strong contingent of predominantly female customers circling for a place to land. I soon discovered that the only thing hangrier than me when I’m in need of sustenance is a Hangry Vegan (HV). After a brief altercation with an HV over some hanging basket seats (see picture) I decided to go and hover somewhere else until we successfully found a nice spot by the window. Once seated I began to take in the surroundings. Most things are white of various different shades and textures which makes it feel light, bright and fresh; imagine McDonald’s with a 90s Philadelphia Cheese ad makeover. The splashes of colour come in the form of green plants, multi-coloured fabric and a fun ‘Guac Save the Queen’ neon sign hanging on one wall. At 7pm the lighting was lowered and the volume of the unfamiliar but good music was turned up. The scene was set for evening trade.
Restaurant agent Benji gives up animal products at By Chloe in Covent Garden
IN
Sat Bains in Nottingham, remarkable.
Eating and drinking out! Eleven Madison Park, New York was eye watering.
Biggest extravagance?
Dressing up in lost property to get into Raffles Chelsea as a 15 year old.
Earliest London memory?
Bibendum in Chelsea, beautiful inside and out a stunning restaurant.
Richmond Park, it feels a long way from London.
Give everyone an extra holiday!
Yes, crossing the road (j walking apparently) in Melbourne during the Ashes series in 2010.
The Goat by Edward Albee, it was a bit weird.
Don’t take life too seriously.
Last play you saw?
If you could buy any building in London what would it be?
Favourite place for a Sunday stroll?
What would you do as Mayor for the day?
Most memorable meal?
Ever had a run in with a policeman?
Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?
Hamish Johnston on Northcote Road – great cheese!
The Goring Hotel – some old school luxury.
A bit cliché but cook books and magazines, I have about 500.
The Nottinghamshire countryside but having lived in London for 8 years, Ladbroke Grove.
What is your all-time favourite London shop?
Building you’d like to be locked in overnight?
What do you collect?
Home is...
Masterchef finalist and property agent Billy Wright recently joined the Central London Retail Team as a restaurant specialist.
Billy Wright
My city
Contacts
Savlls retail team
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